reProLeather – new technology regenerating bio-based leather from leather waste

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Traditional recycled leather is produced by combining shredded scraps and residual fibers of real leather with synthetic, non-biodegradable binders like PU and PVC. In contrast, the reProLeather project has pioneered a new approach. The technology developed by The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) with the support of H&M Foundation, employs bio-based binders and eco-friendly chemicals.

As many industries are looking to minimize waste and save resources, the demand for recycled materials in the fashion industry has increased. However, recycling certain materials can sometimes be a tricky process, especially leather waste can be difficult to recycle. Much of the recycled leather contains harmful chemical residues, such as chromium VI, which result from the tanning process. These chemical residuals are carried through in the conventional recycling process.

In an effort to enable a planet positive industry, by accelerating vital research and supporting breakthrough innovation to scale, H&M Foundation is collaborating with HKRITA in the programme Planet First. One of the research projects, reProLeather, has resulted in a new technology to separate the chromium VI from the shredded leather fibres and create a bio-based, alternative to the PU and PVC binders, thereby creating a new form of recycled leather that is biodegradable and recyclable.

The reProLeather successfully restructured post-consumer leather fibers into leather sheets in its research stage. HKRITA is now seeking industry partners to optimize production properties and enhance functions, paving the way for improved industry applicability in the future.

Christiane Dolva, Strategy Lead at H&M Foundation says:

“As a philanthropic change agent for the entire industry, we take risks to unlock needed solutions with the ambition to find technologies that can contribute to a planet positive fashion future. I’m always open to share our findings openly with others, to find industry actors ready to adopt bold innovations and reProLeather could be one of these solutions. I hope to see it scale soon.”  

 

For more information or scheduling interviews please contact:  

Jasmina Sofić,
Media Relations Responsible, H&M Foundation 
Mobile +46 73 465 59 59 
E-mail: jasmina.sofic@hmfoundation.com

H&M Foundation is privately funded by the Stefan Persson family, founders and main owners of the H&M Group. We use philanthropic resources to find, fund and facilitate disruptive innovations, initiatives and research that enable a socially inclusive and planet positive textile industry. To accelerate the transformation, we take on a holistic and open approach – bringing diverse partners together to co-create, and to share learnings and solutions. The H&M Foundation can also provide emergency relief. For more information visit hmfoundation.com.

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Quick facts

reProLeather is a recycled leather system that separates, categorises and recycles post-consumer leather products into useful raw materials for the manufacturing of new products. It is carried out in two steps, beginning with shredding a whole post-consumer leather product into pieces until leather fibres of high purity are obtained, and removing free chromium by transforming it into a soluble salt or complex compound. Then the separated leather fibres react with bio-based binders such as sugar or protein under mild conditions, and collagen fibres become interconnected and form a new leather. Regenerated leather obtained with such a novel bio-based approach is water-resistant and biodegradable, resulting in a ‘virtuous circle’ for leather recycling.
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